The bells were
ringing and the location was truly inspiring so we attended mass at
the Kolner Dom. The tourists were kept at a gate for the mass,
perfectly understandable and nicely done, but it was easy just to
confirm your wish to attend and gain entry. The bells were for
midday and they came not just from the Dom but presumably they were
the loudest. It's a powerful call to prayer. Sitting, waiting,
musing, you could feel the immensity of the space and the occasion
more than simply touristing. This is the tallest cathedral in the
world and the third-tallest church. How must mediaeval minds have
perceived this, 800 years ago? We know height, but even we have
probably never experienced such height within a building. Firstly for
the side aisles, then for the even taller central aisle and
transcept. A thing of omnipotence and awe. Then the organ, again a
huge sound and immense beauty. Then choral singing, a fairly weak
priest's voice, through mass to communion and departure from a side
door from a relatively unoccupied Dom. Be it a religious or tourist
experience, either way it was quite compelling.
Then on to another Koln experience, Eau di Cologne. The first Eau
di Cologne was developed by Italian Giovanni
Maria Farina
in Koln in 1709. The better known 4711 was also developed in Koln
but decades later. Both have a museum-cum-public space. We visited
the Farina shop, tasted the original and later developments, as one
does. I am not one to comment on the fragrance but it was a pleasant
interlude and an exposure to a world I know little of.
02 November 2023
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