And ivory

Städel's offsider is a lovely but smaller gallery that collects statuary from Egyptian through to the last century or so, the Liebieghaus Skulpturen Sammling. Sadly it seems relatively unloved, or at least poorly attended whenever I visit. I wasn't the only one to notice it, but also not the only to note how undeserved that is. But then it's not a huge collection in any field, except an incredible basement full of exquisite works of ivory. Now ivory is not well thought of these days, what with its relationship to extinctions and colonialism, but the decimation of elephant herds was not of this era: that had to await the arrival of decent armouries to kill animals on an industrial scale. But regardless of the ethical issues, the artistic outcomes are breathtaking. Otherwise, I loved the visits to Egypt, Greece, Rome, Islam, mediaeval, baroque, rococo. All there and so close: touchable, but I don't, but so close to view and experience like an object on your own shelf. And not so large that you need all day to touch on it. Everything to love in a gallery in my book. And my little story of the day. I was looking at souvenirs and found a fridge magnet that's on our fridge. I asked if it's in their collection; I don't remember buying it there. Presumably I did. A staffer took me to see it and was surprised it had been replaced by a new exhibition on early science, the Antikythera mechanism and more. We both learnt something.

The Liebieghaus Skulpturen Sammling (sculpture collection) is in Frankfurt.

Städler’s sister

Städler's sister institution is the Liebieghaus. It's housed in a castle-like manor just a few steps away. Städler displays the visual arts; Liebieghaus displays the sculpture. It's an impressive range if Western oriented, going from Egypt through ancient Greece and Rome on through mediaeval and Renaissance to neoclassicism. It's a small Museum so you can get close to inspect and you'll likely have rooms to yourself. Most was fairly common fair but a small statue of an early Mesopotamian worshipper was new to me and the busts of of ordinary Roman men and women where revealing and the Roman Egypt funeral portrait of a young girl was quite beautiful. But the mediaeval era is usually my favourite with endless religious themes and fervid emotions and dangling fabrics and borers in timber. Some grouped statues were delightful especially one of four clergyman. Then on past a few big della Robbia ceramic panels and into the excessive flourishes of later European years. The special exhibition was a gem: sculptures in ivory. It's a beautiful material for small carvings but aptly no longer available. More ivory than I've experienced in one room and some truly stunning works of detail and faith and, often enough, discrete lust.

It's been a hot, hot summer in Europe and was hot this day. The Liebieghaus is situated in a lovely garden and I swear some people in the outdoor cafe were there when I arrived and when I left. I'd been on a long hot walk around the old battlement gardens and been pleasantly interrupted by a very capable classical violinist busking Vivaldi and Bach and more. Nae Carol was trained in Romania and now teaches and performs in Germany. From Bach Sonata and partita no.3 to Four Seasons all played from memory with wonderful clarity and intonation and bowing. Classy, perhaps more than was deserved by the ignoring tourist hordes.

The Liebieghaus is Frankfurt's sculpture gallery. Nae Carol (violin) busked for hordes of tourists.